Track-Lighting - Versatility Maximised
Most of the lighting salespeople that I know, with all the experience between them, are still daunted when a client asks about “track lighting.” Most clients know it’s a solution to their problems, but they don’t really know why, they just know they need to ask about it.
Let’s start with some basic electrical details.
Electricity moves through conductive materials like copper wire, gold (often used in smart devices), or steel. In a conventional light fitting, you connect the wire from the distribution board (DB) to the connector block on the fitting, and the circuit is done. You flick the switch, and light.
With track lighting, you connect the “track housing” to the circuit, but the light fittings are added after. Confused?
The track has copper rods inside, which act as the conductors for the electrical current. With tracks, you’re basically extending the scope of the electrical circuit in a safe way. The copper rods are built into the track in such a way that we can’t directly touch them, even if we stick our finger in there like a child testing the boundaries of a new parent.
Track Adaptors
The light fittings, whether they are spot-lights, flood lights, hanging lights or LED linears, will have a “track adaptor” attached. There are a few variations in shape, but they work on the same principle. The adaptor will have a mechanical locking mechanism, which, when engaged, extends little copper arms into the grooves that house the copper rods inside the track. Now, the copper-to-copper connection will allow the electrical current to make it into the light fitting and the lamp, and like magic, you flick the switch, and light.
So now we understand that tracks are a little more complicated than standard light fittings, but why have the extra trouble?
- Contemporary building styles are so often driven by cost more than aesthetics. Ceilings are extra expenses to many property developers, and so many times, they simply leave them out. Now the question is, “Where to put the lights?” (also, often left to the 11th hour and then squeezed in on the tightest budgets).
- Tracks can be mounted on concrete, since they’re surface fixtures. So, no ceiling, no problem. You do get recessed options, so if you do have a ceiling, and want a very sleek look, you can hide the track if you don’t want to see it.
- They’re variable in length; you can simply cut a 3m track down to the size you need, and nothing more is needed. Or, you can join them together, and since it’s 240V, there’s no problem with voltage losses across the installation. You can use the L or T shape connectors and change direction and go around corners if you wish. Some brands even have flexible connectors so you can skip that fire sprinkler that’s in your way.
- There is also no electrical limit on the number of lights you install – if they fit, they should work. The general guidelines about the quantity of lights will still apply, so as not to over-light a space, so we’re not embracing gluttony on this. Mask.’s general rule of thumb: space your downlights or spotlights so they’re between 700mm and 900mm apart; assuming your ceiling is 2.4–2.6m high and you’re using a domestic-grade LED lamp (5W–7W is typical). Decorative lighting looks best in odd numbers, so take the size and layout of the fittings and your space into consideration. Proportions will matter in determining how many you need.
- Track lighting is suitable for accent lighting, task lighting, or general illumination. It’s commonly used in residential spaces, art galleries, museums, retail stores, and other commercial settings, and is a great solution when lighting wasn’t fully considered from the beginning of the design process.
- You can have spotlights in one part of your kitchen, for example, and pendant lights over another, like the island or breakfast counter. This might only require a single electrical connection, and you can move them around after installation is done as you realise where you need more, or where you want less light.
- Since the tracks are essentially conduits, your dimming and lighting controls will be the same as for any other type of light fitting. If you want to dim, sure. If you want to have Smart Switches, no problem. If you want to include motion sensors, absolutely. (Just remember that all these components still need to be compatible with the light source.)
Types of Lighting Tracks
Three Wire Track Lighting System
Four Wire Track Lighting System
- The cheaper option on tracks is usually referred to as 3-wire, meaning they only have 3 copper rods inside. This is a single circuit, so everything on that track will switch on and off together.
- The more expensive tracks, which are more commercially suited, are referred to as 4-wire.
The additional copper rods in the tracks allow for a second circuit on the same line, so you have spotlights (first circuit, on and off) and pendant lights (second circuit, dimmable) on the same powerpoint.
Special Note:
Keep in mind that not all tracks are made to be interchangeable with all other tracks, so if you buy parts from one supplier, you need to keep the rest of the lights and future components for the tracks, from that same supplier. There are some suppliers that claim “universal” connectors and profiles, but this is not commonly available.
So, for any lighting requirements where you’re not quite ready to commit to something fixed in place forever, or if your space’s use has changed and you need different lighting to what was built, tracks can be a great solution. Mostly available in black or white, you can choose to emphasize them or keep them discreet. You can have various choices on the lights on offer, or you can keep them all the same.
Tracks are simple, really.
hello@mask-design.co.za
+27 64 908 8411
